We finally got to see one of the most famous buildings in the world, the Pantheon. The last time we were in Rome, we were here on All Souls Day and since the Pantheon is a working Baslica, it was closed for masses. Built by Agrippa, who served under the first Roman Emperor, Caesar Augustus, between 25 and 27 BCE, It burned around 100 CE, and was rebuilt by Hadrian between 118 and 125 CE. Hadian left (or restored) Agrippa’s name on the front, rather than put his own name there.
After a long history as a temple to all the pagan gods, Christianity was on the rise, and the temple became a church, which meant it was stripped of its pagan gods. Pope Boniface IV was responsible for this, around 609 CE.
I was curious about the location. It was likely used as a temple site for a very long time, even before the first version of the Pantheon. It is an area associated with Romulus, Rome’s founder. It was in a significant, populous area of Rome, Campus Martius, an area dedicated to Mars, and used for military parades. Having all the gods under one roof would be important to honor them all equally, I suppose.
I also started to think about “one stop god appeals,” in a busy area. Whichever god it was who could help you out was conveniently located in one location– like a food court but for gods. The temple would sort of have been in the “muscle memory” of the people, in terms of prayer, so converting to a single God would not be that much different in terms of habit and how a person praying might feel about heading to the temple if they needed something. As a Catholic Church, the Pantheon’s name is Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs, so the idea of multiples really did stick. I hasten to add that these are my own musings about how the ordinary people might adapt to rapid change. I’m not quoting anything I heard or read.
The dome, course, is impressive. It was raining today, so yes, the rain comes right in, it does get on the floor but also does drain. The sun shining through the opening in the dome aligns with the door on April 21, the day Rome was founded. This magnificent building was in the mix with the citizens, not just up on Palatine Hill with the elites. It commands attention and respect in many ways: architecturally, symbolically, and as a an engineering feat.
The two kings of unified Italy are buried here, and there is a voluntary honor guard. Successors to the throne were exiled, so two seems to be the limit for now. The artist Raphael is also buried here.
People will feel various depths of meaning in a space like this. For me the most impressive idea was that for centuries the building has stood and been a place that hoards of people want to visit, for different reasons. Not very many buildings can fulfill the needs of so many– it must be millions and millions over the centuries.
We were taken for a coffee at an excellent and unique shop nearby. I recommend it if you are in Rome. Please order your expresso with sugar even if you usually don’t.
We had a whole busy afternoon and evening, but it’s past 11:30pm and I am just too tired to relate them at the moment.
