I do know where I am. We are in Ravenna, which means today we drove a couple of hours north and east of Perugia, leaving Umbria behind (sadly.) Just when I start to think (after three consecutive Falls of traveling in Italy) that I am grasping the history of the regions we now call Italy (see how carefully I have to word that!), I learn something new that makes me have to figure out my time markers all over again.
After we arrived in Ravenna we had a nice seated lunch, and a little expresso to prepare for an afternoon walk around this city. It is one of Italy’s largest by area, though in population it is only #24. It is a UNESCO world heritage site for the very old mosaics in some of the very old churches. The photos above are two examples.
When I say I am confused about East and West, this is because the religious depictions are done in mosaic, and are very early (547 CE). They look like Eastern orthodox art to me, but the area of Ravenna was the capital of the Western Roman Empire for most of the 5th century. If you are reading this and know a lot about the history of art and/or the Roman Empire and/or early Christianity, you can just roll your eyes. Actually, everyone else can roll eyes too, because my personal struggle with what is East and what is West, is probably not as important as just admiring the mosaics.
The figures above include the Emperor Justinian (with crown and halo), and his local, Ravenna bishop Maximus (second from Justinian on your right). Maximus probably really did look like he is pictured, and he is labeled, just to be sure you recognise him and understand that his authority over you is backed up by the Emperor. What is really interesting, is that this lineup is on the left side of the altar! So, if you were hearing mass, facing another beautiful mosaic of Jesus on top of the world, you’d have these political leaders also watching over you. They’d catch your worship vibe, whether you wanted them to or not.
The empress, in her mosaic mural, would be in your view to the right side of the altar, across from her husband. She was, I learned, a very powerful woman who had been an “actress,” which is one small step above prostitute, before she married.
Here is Jesus. He is on top of the world, and presenting a crown to St. Vitale, for whom the Basilica is dedicated. The designer of the church is on the right, holding a model of the building. The glass windows below are made to look like albaster, because that would be historically accurate. On the right and left you can sort of see the mosaics of the emperor and empress.
While thinking about the civic and religious implications of having everyone watch over the worshipers, I was also trying to take in the art and craft of the mosaics themselves. They are glorious! The colors are rich, soothing and exciting at the same time. The gold glimmers, and the greens were especially pleasing to my eye. To think of the construction, piece by piece, to create something so beautiful, is very awe inspiring. To be thorough, here is the outside of the building.
Ravenna is still considered a mosaic artist’s city, and students come here to learn. In the 1990s, below a church, an old but large and once lavish domus was discovered and excavated. The mosaic floors of this domus were cleaned and conserved, and so Ravenna can even be known for its archaeological mosaic art. They date from 1-2 BCE!
Another famous mosaic site is the Mausoleum of Galla Placida. At some point, I will find more to read about her. She was the regent for this part of the world starting in 425 CE and was influential for the next 25 years. She died in Rome and could not be entombed in Ravenna, but did arrange for her mausoleum which has, again, beautiful mosaics, and is especially know for the “sky” in the ceiling:
As for the modern city: It is quite nice, and friendly. We strolled around this (Saturday) evening and saw many families with young children. There was a wine festival in a piazza that also drew a young crowd. Every fifth person has a small dog. We ate a local grilled sandwich called a piadini, and then we found gelato. Only in Italy would I eat a cone of gelato when it’s in the high 50s and I’m while wearing a puffer jacket.
The moonrise was beautiful and I tried to get some photos:
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